Hoover HNC180-80 Tumble Drier doesn’t stay on and makes a buzzing noise

This post is a slight departure from my normal topics.

A few months ago my Hoover Tumble Dryer HNC180-80 developed some odd behaviour, in that it refused to stay on, and made a buzzing noise while the button was held down. This may also occur for the following models: CANDY CC217-80 , CC217-88 , CC217-SY , CC266-S , CC266T-47, CC267-37 , CC267-80 , CC267T-01S , CC267T-84, CC267T-88, CC276T-47, CC277T-86S, CD6720-ISR, CDC165-83SY, CDC168-SY, CDC179X-88, CDC263, CDC263CH, CDC266UK, CDC266X, CDC266XCH, CDC267ESY, CDC668-37, CDC668-47, CDC668-SY, CDC679X-SY, CDC768-47, CDC779X-86SY, CDE105-80, CDV160-S, CDV262, CDV262-04ARG, CDV262ES, CDV262UK, CDV660-37, CDV660-47, CDV660-SY, CDV671XSY, CIC209TX, CIC209X, CIC209XCH, CIC60, CIV109, CIV109OS, CIV139X, CIV60, CV116-80, CV116-SY, CV117-04S, CV117-OS, CV166-37, CV166-37/0, CV166-47, CV166-47/0, CV166-S HOOVER HDC6UK, HDC70XSY, HDC7FMUK, HDC7UK, HDV60SY, HDV6UK, HDV70XSY, HDV7FMUK, HNC160-80, HNC170-80, HNC170S-80, HNC171X-SY, HNC172-80, HNC172S-80, HNC175-80, HNC175S-80, HNC180-80, HNC180-SY, HNC180S-80, HNC260-SY, HNC270-80, HNC271X, HNC375T-30S, HNC375T-80, HNC375T-84, HNC375T-88, HNC771X-SY, HNC775T-80, HNV160-80, HNV160-SY, HNV171X-ISR, HNV171X-SY, HNV172-80, HNV375-80, HNV375-80/0, HNV375-S, HNV375-S/0, HSC170-80, HSV170-80, KIT HNC171SY, KIT HNV171X, PFC170-80, PFV170-80, PPC160-80, PPC160J-80, PPV160-80, TC650 001, TCE660 001, TCX51 031, TCX52 061, TCX53 011, TV630 001, TV640 001, TVX31 031, TVX33 011, TVX33 014

After searching the internet I was lead to believe this buzzing was a faulty relay, and that giving your Tumble Dryer a hard slap fixes the problem! This worked fine for me until  a few weeks ago when the violent approach failed to deliver results.

The same week I bought a new Fridge Freezer and Washing Machine due to failures so I wanted a cheap fix.

Then I came upon this replacement relay board on Amazon for £15!
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http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0033GQBRY
Other online spares shops sold it for £50. The short story is – it worked. Here’s how I installed it.

DISCLAIMER: these are not instructions, this is a story of how I replaced the board. If you choose to act upon reading my story then you do so at your own risk. I am not responsible for anything YOU do.

First of all, I unplugged the mains!

Then removed the three screws at the back of the lid.
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This allows me to pull the rear lid guard off.
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Then I was able to pull back the lid plate exposing the front fascia and all the wires.
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At this point I could probably manage to do the work without pulling more panels apart but I found it much easier to remove the front fascia. This is achieved by removing two screws at the top near the front (one shown below). These are awkward as they bind two pieces of plastic together and drill into the metal cabinet. I had to jiggle the screw and plastic around to dislodge them. If only I had a magnetised screwdriver.
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I then removed the same screw on the other side of the cabinet. Before I could detach the fascia I had to slide the side rails away from the front fascia.

I then pulled the big dial off; jiggled it up and down, pulling, until it popped off. In hindsight it would have been a good idea to make it line up with the “0” position first.

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The pin and housing are shaped, helpful yet unhelpful!
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I removed the front fascia, it is attached to the main board from the buttons to the wires so I didn’t get too violent. This was achieved by sliding the fascia to the right about 2cm, pulling away,then it just drops down.
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I now have some more space in which to work, and attach our new board.
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Some internet tips told me how to remove the original board by removing lots more panels and screws, but I wasn’t too happy about removing more and more panels to only discover the replacement might be a dud. You can see the red, square relay below. My goal is to move all the wires from the original board to the new one and secure it.
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I started by just swapping ONE wire at a time, taking care to remember EXACTLY where it is supposed to be.
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I used a flat screwdriver to help leverage off the connectors.
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And here it is, all hooked up.
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Before I did any more – I tested it. Obviously this means I need to pop the dial back on if it was in a non operational position, and that the mains would be switched on while the wires are exposed.

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Awesome, it worked, no fires or deaths. MAINS OFF. Now I wanted to secure it. Rather than trying to get the old board off, I simply located a space and a free fixing hole. Obviously I would have drilled another if required. Using a nut, bolt, spring washer and flat washer I easily secured the new board. There was a bit of plastic that got in the way – I just made sure it didn’t cause the board to bend.
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All that was required now was to
+ remove the dial again
+ carefully slot on the front fascia, not crushing connectors or wires.
+ slide the rails back into position
+ screw in the two top screws
+ slide the lid back in
+ attach the rear lid guard
+ screw in the three screws
+ make a cup of tea.
+ do some washing & drying

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